Nearly Finished turning the Taper

Nearly Finished.

The tool used for the turning is my parting tool.

The end of the blade has been ground in a semi circle, so that I get rounded corners at both ends.
The rounded corners make for a stronger rod.

The keen observers amongst you will note that one rod is better than the other in this respect :-)

Still they both look nice and shiny.

Getting ready to remove some brass

Getting ready to
remove some brass

Set up in the three jaw chuck. You might note that the con rod is slightly proud of the chuck, this is done to allow me to true the end of the con rod by tapping with my trusty "Ammer".

Keep turning the chuck by hand, use a tool close to the surface to check , then tap and check, tap and check.

Once the con rod is "trued" as closely as possible, the turning can begin.

Set the cross slide to follow the angle of the rough casting as closely as possible so that you get a nice taper.

You can also do this between centres, by offseting the tailstock the appopriate amount, but then you have to remember to re-center the tailstock when you have finished.

2 Connecting Rods before Machining

Connecting Rods
before Machining
.

Two connecting rods ready for a bit more machining.

The conrods are provided as cast brass moldings, they are nice quality, but do need quite a bit of machining to get them to look really nice.

The moldings cut nicely and the casting is well done with no blow holes.

These have been turned between centres to provide an accurate spigot for later turning procedures.

A suitably filled Tool Holder

A suitably filled Tool Holder,
originally uploaded by tudedude.

• A very useful and easily made piece of kit. Not only stores your everyday tools, but it means that you can actually find them when you need them.
  
• This was all made from scrap bits and pieces.
  

At Last a clear workbench - not often seen

At Last a clear workbench - not often seen,
originally uploaded by tudedude.

• Managed to clear some space, so that I can get on with some of my projects.
• The V notched Item on the left is a very important part of the workshop. It allows me to cut and file, saw scrape and generally do all the things that you would'nt want to do on your nice bench top.
• The work benches were bought as a cheap lot from a "shed" and are screwed together and to the wall for rigidity.
• Tools are mounted on MDF boards behind the benches with pencil outlines so I know where to put each tool (when I can find them of course)

I Confess My Untidy Engineering Workshop

I Confess My Untidy
Engineering Workshop

Well here it is, chaos corner.

The result of putting too much stuff into too small a space, still it's my little space and I'm comfy there :-)

Turning The Connecting Rod

Turning The Con Rod,
originally uploaded by tudedude.

• The connecting rod big end, has been turned to size and the lower face skimmed, ready to mark out for drilling the retaining bolt holes.
  
• The spigot at the end is used when skiming the other face and for machining the top end of the con rod.
  
• The spigot is sawn off before completion of the con rod.
  

Centre drilling the small end of the Connecting Rod

• 
  Centre drilling for the Rotating Steady,
  originally uploaded by tudedude.
  Marking out for the centre hole is not easy, but must be as accurate as possible, to ensure that the whole connecting rod is in line when it is turned between centres.
  
• The hole is drilled with a Slocombe or Centre drill.
• Drilling for the gudgeon pin will be covered later
  

Marking out

Marking out,
originally uploaded by tudedude.

Using my small marble surface table, and an electronic Height Gauge.

Connecting Rod ready for drilling

• 
  Con Rod ready for drilling,
  originally uploaded by tudedude.
  This is the bottom end of the connecting rod, its marked up with 13mm between centres, ready to drill the holes for the con rod bolts.
  
  
• I'm thinking of putting in locator tubes between the two halves to get a more accurate fit, when fitting and separating the bearing halves.
  
  
• The holes for the bolts are drilled before the big end is cut with the slitting saw.
  

Turning between centres

Turning between centres,
originally uploaded by tudedude.

• This shows a connecting rod set up between centres on the lathe. The lathe dog provides the drive.

• Turning between centres is usefull as the item being turned can be removed and replaced without loosing accuracy.

• If you don't have a faceplate and a rotating centre, just use your chuck and turn up a suitable centre from some scrap steel, it doesn't need to be hardened.