Finished with honing the bores. This takes a little time, but if approached in the right frame of mind can be quite theraputic.
Tuesday, 4 November 2008
Hi Tech Hone/polishing tool
This is one of the coarser grits used.
The screw at the and is tightened just a little each time. The item being honed is pushed back and forth on the hone tool, and can be lubricated with a little oil.
Make sure that the part of the hone tool next to the chuck, is of a much smaller diameter than the working part, to ensure that the hone tool does not grab the work piece.
Hi Tech Hone/polishing tool
Made from a bit of broom handle, turned so that the front end is a push fit into the cylinder bore, then the rear half is tapered toward the chuck.
In use the hone is coated with griding compound then the cylinder is moved back and for along the hone whilst it is turning at a slow speed.
You need to use a different hone for each grade of grinding compound, to ensure that you don't scratch the final finish.
In use the hone is coated with griding compound then the cylinder is moved back and for along the hone whilst it is turning at a slow speed.
You need to use a different hone for each grade of grinding compound, to ensure that you don't scratch the final finish.
Cylinder after Boring
The cylinder has been bored and faced both ends, and is ready for honing and polishing.
The side of the casting has been milled flat, ready for rubbing down.
I quite often use surgical rubber or vinyl gloves in the workshop, especially when using cast iron.
The amount of carbon in cast iron makes it a very dirty metal to work with, but the same carbon makes cast iron very easy to machine, as it gives self lubricating qualities.
The side of the casting has been milled flat, ready for rubbing down.
I quite often use surgical rubber or vinyl gloves in the workshop, especially when using cast iron.
The amount of carbon in cast iron makes it a very dirty metal to work with, but the same carbon makes cast iron very easy to machine, as it gives self lubricating qualities.
Getting Ready to Bore Steam Cylinder
Cast iron cylinder mounted in a four jaw chuck ready to be bored.
I'm using a tungsten carbide tipped tool to turn the bore. Cast Iron can have a hard skin which will wear silver steel tools very quickly, the tungsten tool overcomes this.
I used the same tool to skim the face of the casting, before boring.
I'm using a tungsten carbide tipped tool to turn the bore. Cast Iron can have a hard skin which will wear silver steel tools very quickly, the tungsten tool overcomes this.
I used the same tool to skim the face of the casting, before boring.
Monday, 3 November 2008
A polished Connecting Rod
This con rod is being re-done as the polishing was over vigorous.
Look at the big end section the finish is all wobbly and the flange too rounded.
One of the problems of using power polishing with softer materials is ensuring that the form of the item is retained.
You will also notice that the joints of the big end have been rounded and are no longer neat.
Look at the big end section the finish is all wobbly and the flange too rounded.
One of the problems of using power polishing with softer materials is ensuring that the form of the item is retained.
You will also notice that the joints of the big end have been rounded and are no longer neat.
A Planishing Hammer
A close up of my engineering ball pein hammer, that has been polished to act as a planishing hammer.
I use this hammer for working on copper, brass or aluminium sheet , the high polish ensures that the surface finish is not affected too much.
The polishing is not difficult, just slow :-) use different grades of emery cloth getting finer and finer till the finish is good enough to polish on the power polisher.
The harder the metal, the better and shinier the final polish will be.
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